6 Types of Peels: Which One is Right for My Skin?

Information as of July 2026

Selection Guide by Type

• Comparison of 6 types of peels
• Customized selection criteria by skin type
• Price range: ₩50,000 - ₩500,000

Common Peeling Concerns Seen in Consultation Rooms

"I want to try a peel, what would be good for me?" As soon as they sat down at the consultation table, they handed me their phone, showing me a search results screen. The screen was filled with alphabets like AHA, BHA, and PHA, even TCA. "They say these are all peels, but honestly, I don't know the difference." They added, tracing their jawline with their hand, "I want to know what's right for my skin."

There are broadly 6 types of peels, and while they all aim for exfoliation, their depth of action, target layer, and recovery period are completely different. Using strong acids on sensitive skin can lead to contact dermatitis, while using weak ingredients on oily, acne-prone skin makes it difficult to see results. In this article, we'll break down the selection criteria for each skin type, covering everything from the top 3 acid ingredients: AHA, BHA, and PHA, to TCA, retinol, and enzyme peels, along with their concentrations, clinical data, and actual costs.

Peeling isn't just about 'exfoliation'; the key is promoting epidermal turnover (skin regeneration cycle). A normal turnover cycle is 28 days, but after age 30, it extends to 40-50 days, leading to dull skin. Peeling ingredients work by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells (desmosomes), shedding old cells, and accelerating the rise of new cells from the basal layer. The Korean Dermatological Association's 2021 guidelines classify peels as home care for concentrations below 10% and professional treatments for concentrations above 30%.

6 Types of Peels and Their Ingredient-Specific Mechanisms

AHA peels (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) are water-soluble ingredients that work on the skin's surface. Glycolic acid and lactic acid are common examples. Glycolic acid, with a molecular weight of 76Da, penetrates quickly, while lactic acid (144Da) is slightly gentler. In clinical settings, they are used at concentrations of 30-70%, and the US FDA approved them as cosmetic ingredients in 1997. They are reported to improve melanin pigmentation and promote collagen synthesis, with many studies showing significant results at concentrations above 30%.

BHA peels (Beta Hydroxy Acids) are oil-soluble and penetrate into the pores to dissolve sebum. Salicylic acid is the only BHA ingredient. Even at concentrations of 0.5-2%, it shows effectiveness in improving acne, and clinics use it at concentrations up to 20-30%. A 2019 study published in the Journal of the Korean Dermatological Association reported that 20% salicylic acid peels showed a reduction in inflammation in 74% of 68 patients with mild to moderate acne. It is particularly effective for oily skin, blackheads, and whiteheads.

PHA peels (Poly Hydroxy Acids) include gluconolactone and lactobionic acid. With molecular weights of 178Da or higher, they penetrate slowly and are less irritating. They are recommended for sensitive skin and those with atopic tendencies, starting at concentrations of 2-5% and increasing up to 10%. A 2020 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that PHA 10% peeling improved skin barrier (TEWL) levels by 15% after 8 weeks of use.

Key Takeaway AHAs target surface dead skin and pigmentation, BHAs target pore sebum, and PHAs are for sensitive skin. Even with the same 'peel,' the target layer differs, so you need to identify your skin concerns first to choose the right ingredient.

When to Use TCA, Retinol, and Enzyme Peels

TCA peels (Trichloroacetic Acid) are medium-depth peels that penetrate to the dermis at concentrations of 15-35%. They are used for acne scars, deep wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. The recovery period is long, 7-10 days, and there is a risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) 2018 guidelines recommend concentrations of 20% or less for darker skin types (Fitzpatrick III-IV). In Korea, they are often used for spot treatments in scar clinics.

Retinol peels use vitamin A derivatives (retinol, retinaldehyde) to stimulate collagen production. Rather than a peel, it's more of a 'regeneration promoter.' It takes consistent use at concentrations of 0.1-1% for 4-8 weeks to see results. During the initial 2 weeks, dryness, peeling, and redness are reported in 70% of patients; this is called the 'retinoid reaction.' It is contraindicated during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Enzyme peels use proteolytic enzymes like papain and bromelain to dissolve dead skin cells. They are much gentler than acid-based peels, and with a redness incidence of less than 5%, even sensitive skin can try them. However, their effects are mild, so they are primarily used for exfoliation, and improvements in pigmentation or pores are unlikely. They are commonly found in home care products.

• TCA 25% peel: Recovery period 7-10 days, reaches dermis
• Retinol 0.5%: Initial 2 weeks dryness/peeling in 70%
• Enzyme peel: Redness incidence <5%, for exfoliation

Peeling Selection Criteria by Skin Type

For sensitive skin (prone to redness and dryness), it's safest to start with PHA at 2-5%. A clinical study published in 2020 showed that 5% lactobionic acid peeling improved the skin barrier. Glycolic acid and salicylic acid can be too irritating, so it's best to avoid them. Enzyme peels are also an alternative. A patch test (applying to the inner arm for 24 hours) is essential.

For oily and acne-prone skin, BHA (salicylic acid) at 0.5-2% is the first choice. Its effect of dissolving sebum in pores and reducing inflammation has been repeatedly reported. Combining it with clinic peels (20-30%) every 2-4 weeks is beneficial. AHAs are good for surface exfoliation but don't penetrate deep into pores, so they are best used in combination with BHAs rather than alone.

For dry skin with pigmentation concerns, AHA (glycolic acid, lactic acid) at 30-50% is effective. It helps shed melanin and accelerates turnover to improve dullness. Clinical data shows a 30% reduction in hyperpigmentation after 8 weeks of use. However, AHAs are photosensitizing (increase sensitivity to UV rays), so SPF50+ sunscreen is essential.

Home Care vs. Clinic Peels: How Different Are the Effects?

Home care peels are limited to concentrations of 10% or less. The Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set cosmetic standards at AHA 10% and BHA 2% or less. Used daily or 2-3 times a week, they aim for exfoliation and skin texture improvement, but deep effects like melanin reduction or pore minimization are unlikely. The price per product ranges from ₩30,000 to ₩100,000.

Clinic peels use high concentrations of 30-70% and are administered by medical professionals. The depth of exfoliation is more than 3 times that of home care, and improvements in pigmentation, pores, and fine wrinkles have been clinically confirmed. After the procedure, peeling occurs for 2-5 days, and moisturizing and sun protection are essential during the recovery period. The cost per session ranges from ₩100,000 to ₩300,000 (AHA/BHA), and TCA peels are around ₩300,000 to ₩500,000.

Honestly, home care alone has its limitations. While advertisements may claim 'clinic results at home,' that's only half marketing. What I recommend is daily maintenance with home care combined with 1-2 clinic peels per season. For example, get clinic peels during less sunny seasons like spring and fall, and maintain with home care during summer and winter.

Tip For 7 days after a clinic peel, discontinue the use of retinol and vitamin C serums. Overlapping irritating ingredients during the peeling phase increases the risk of contact dermatitis.

Key Takeaway: Peeling Selection Starts with Your Skin's Current Condition

With peeling, it's not about 'stronger is always better'; it's about finding the limit your skin can currently tolerate. Applying TCA to sensitive skin will cause damage, not recovery. Conversely, using only PHA on oily skin won't yield results. Use the ingredient concentrations and skin type criteria outlined in this article as a checklist to first assess your current skin condition.

Plan your budget realistically. Home care products cost ₩30,000-₩100,000 per bottle and can last 3-6 months, while clinic peels cost ₩100,000-₩500,000 per session but provide noticeable results quickly. It's reasonable to approach it by dividing your goals: home care for daily maintenance, and clinic treatments for specific concerns (pigmentation/scars).

• Sensitive skin: Start with PHA 2-5%, patch test is essential
• Oily, acne-prone skin: BHA 0.5-2% home care + clinic peel every 2-4 weeks
• Pigmentation concerns: Significant effects with AHA concentrations above 30%, combined with SPF50+ sun protection
• After clinic peels: Discontinue retinol/vitamin C serums for 7 days, focus on recovery care

Peeling Ingredient Comparison

Peeling Selection Guide for Your Situation

Common Misconceptions

Peeling Precautions

• !!Discontinue retinol/vitamin C serums for 7 days after clinic peels!! (Risk of contact dermatitis from overlapping irritation)
• Mandatory SPF50+ sunscreen use during AHA peeling (Photosensitivity can worsen pigmentation)
• Retinol peels are contraindicated during pregnancy/breastfeeding; consult a medical professional.
• Do not use high-concentration products immediately without a patch test (Check for allergies/redness first).
• Avoid saunas, steam rooms, and excessive exercise for 3 days after peeling (Heat can worsen redness).

Frequently Asked Questions

This content is for informational purposes only and does not substitute medical advice. Always consult with a dermatologist before undergoing any peeling procedures.

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